Questions about choosing a watch strap? Looking for a change? In this guide you will discover everything about this horological accessory — it must harmonise with the dial and colours of your timepiece as well as your personal style. You will also see how several types of straps can fit the same watch, radically transforming its look. From NATO straps to alligator, leather watch straps or rubber… the choice is vast, whether in materials, colours, dimensions, style or technical features! Feel free to contact us by phone at: 09 80 84 88 08 (local call rate).
Getting the exact measurements of your strap!
The different types of watch straps
Colour harmony — essential!
Pin buckle or deployment clasp?
How to change your watch strap?
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Watch Strap Dimensions: How to Measure Exactly?
Checking the width of your watch strap:
Before purchasing a watch strap, you must ensure you have the exact measurement! The key measurement is the strap's "width" at the attachment point. This width is measured at the watch case, between the two "lugs" where the strap is fixed — this is called the "lug width". Simply measure this gap precisely (using a ruler or ideally a calliper).
Standard lug widths found on watches are generally: 16mm – 18mm – 20mm – 22mm – 24mm.
Straps in 19mm or 21mm are fairly rare.
Example: If the lug width of your watch is 20mm (as with almost all Rolex watches), you should choose a strap in the "20mm" category.
Conclusion: Do not simply measure the width of your old strap — measure the lug width of the watch itself, which is far more reliable!
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The buckle width:
The buckle width is measured in the same way, on its inner part, where the strap attaches via a spring bar. A buckle is generally narrower than the strap (usually 2mm less).
So, a 20mm strap will usually come with an "18mm" buckle — reference 20/18.
Another example: a "24mm" strap will typically have a "22mm" buckle, making it a "24/22mm" strap (24mm lug width, 22mm buckle).
The buckle width is of little concern, as our straps are sold with their original buckle already fitted. However, if you wish to reuse your existing buckle, you will need to measure it precisely to ensure the correct size match when fitting the new strap.
Standard strap length is 20cm
Standard straps have a total length (L) of approximately 20cm. The "short end" is usually 8cm, and the "long end" is 12cm. Other sizes exist, such as XL (22cm) or Medium (18cm).
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Remove your strap to take accurate measurements:
Accurate measurements require removing the watch strap first. Nothing could be simpler with the right tool! This tool has a forked tip (never use a screwdriver). The process is straightforward:
- Open the strap and place the watch face-down on a non-slip surface
- Insert the tool's forked tip between the strap and the watch lug
- Hook onto the spring bar that passes through the strap
- Compress the spring bar so it disengages from the watch lug
- Swing the strap away — it is now completely free
- The same technique applies to metal bracelets.
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Watch strap removal tools:
Many strap removal tools are available online for just a few euros. However, pay attention to the tool's origin, material and precision! A low-quality tool will break quickly, and a poor-quality steel fork will be too thick, damaging the strap or scratching the watch.
Go for fine forks! The reference tool remains the Swiss-made BERGEON 6767F, where F stands for FINE fork. With its stainless steel tip, it is extremely precise and long-lasting. Priced at €19.90, it is the professional horologist's reference.
Click here to discover the tool on our e-Shop
Spring bars must be changed regularly
Watch straps are typically secured to the watch with spring bars. Always choose marine-grade stainless steel spring bars. Check their condition periodically (bent? seized?) and replacing them when fitting a new strap is essential!
New strap = new spring bars!
Standard spring bars are 1.5mm in diameter. We recommend opting for 1.8mm diameter stainless steel bars — more robust, especially for NATO straps.
Example: for a strap with a "20mm" lug width, choose and fit new "20mm" spring bars.
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Quick release watch strap spring bars
This quick-release system allows you to remove your strap without any tools. A small stainless steel pin is pressed with a fingernail to compress the spring bar, releasing it from the watch. Very useful for a quick colour change.
Pay close attention to exact sizing: a 20mm quick-release strap will only fit correctly on a watch with an exact 20mm lug width! If the actual lug width is 21mm, the 20mm strap will not fit properly.
The HIRSCH watch strap range now features this quick release system on the majority of their collection, with robust and excellent quality QuickRelease pins (photo 1 below).
The quick release pins (visible in the photos below) can be permanently removed and replaced with standard stainless steel spring bars if your watch is slightly wider. Simply carefully remove the protruding pin with pliers, extract the bar, and replace it with a standard stainless steel spring bar (see 4th photo below):
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HIRSCH Performance strap and Quick Release system:
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Fitting a watch strap — video guide
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The Different Types of Watch Straps
The NATO strap — a growing phenomenon
Easy to fit, water-resistant and shape-retaining. World-famous since it appeared on James Bond's Rolex Submariner in Goldfinger and more recently on an Omega Speedmaster in Spectre 007, this nylon strap adjusts to any wrist size and is machine washable. Daniel Wellington also helped popularise this striped look.
Affordable (from €19 on our site, with marine-grade stainless steel buckles), the NATO strap comes in different widths and a wide range of colours. Beware of counterfeits (Asian-made straps around €10) with weak stitching and buckles that deform.
History of the NATO strap
Combining technical qualities with fashion appeal, this watch strap has achieved enormous popularity. It is a genuine fashion accessory — often boldly coloured and full of character! Historically, production only began in earnest in 1973 at the request of the British Ministry of Defence (MOD), as leather straps were technically unsuited to certain uses. NATO comes from the North Atlantic Treaty Organization. The nylon strap seen in Goldfinger was originally a simple khaki, black and red striped piece of nylon. The first G10 NATO straps of 1973 were immediately more sophisticated and only available in grey: Admiralty Grey G10. The original specification remains the same today:
- 1 single piece of nylon 27cm long, wrapping around the wrist and even over a diving suit;
- Single-piece marine-grade stainless steel buckle for added security (no spring pin fixing as too fragile), sewn directly into the fabric;
- Thickness of 1.2mm to 1.5mm maximum;
- Heat-sealed holes to prevent deformation;
- Resistant nylon stitching;
- Rectangular or rounded Zulu-style stainless steel keepers.
The NATO strap measures 27cm — always a little too long? That is perfectly normal! The last few centimetres are folded into the last keeper. This means the strap never needs to be cut. It adapts to all wrist sizes.
The advantages of the NATO strap
The strengths of this type of strap are many, contributing to its everyday success:
- Safe: if a spring bar breaks accidentally, the watch will not be lost — it remains held by the second bar;
- A sporty, relaxed, unique and colourful style for any watch, even very high-end timepieces;
- More resistant than leather to outdoor conditions;
- The watch is held between two keepers;
- Once fitted, no tools are needed to change strap colour — the operation takes just 15 seconds!
The recent arrival of NATO straps in leather or rubberised crocodile adds a touch of elegance alongside the extravagance! A fashionable style favoured by collectors of major watch brands such as ROLEX, Omega, Panerai and others…
Harmonising a NATO strap with your watch and outfit!
The NATO strap works with any watch style, as long as colour harmony is respected! For example, a strap with beige or sand stripes pairs perfectly with a vintage watch featuring patinated indices. Conversely, a NATO with white or vivid lines suits a modern watch with white hands! The ROLEX Submariner with black dial is the star of the multi-coloured NATO world — your ROLEX becomes more FUN!
Beyond matching a NATO strap with the watch dial, it is also possible to coordinate it with the day's outfit colour code! The same rule applies: beige trousers call for a NATO with a beige stripe on a vintage watch. Alternatively, a Khaki NATO pairs perfectly with beige trousers if the watch is modern (with very white indices).
Changing a NATO strap in the morning is remarkably simple — it takes less than 15 seconds to remove and replace a NATO strap on a watch!
Here are two photos showing NATO colour and dial detail combinations: perfect harmony!
NATO with beige stripe, or predominantly beige with red stripe on a vintage patinated ROLEX 5513
White line NATO on a modern Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor...
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NATO straps for smart watches
The drawback of a standard NATO strap is that it wraps around the entire wrist, preventing the smart watch sensors (Apple Watch style) from touching the skin. No need to worry — 2-piece NATO straps have arrived, partly driven by the popularity of the TUDOR Black Bay. They have the NATO look but attach like a standard watch strap with 2 stainless steel spring bars. Available on our website in 20mm width.
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Smart Watch NATO straps on our e-Shop
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The 5 essential base colours to start a NATO collection
Here are the 5 essential basics to have in your personal collection! These 5 colourways are compatible with any dark-dialled watch, vintage or modern:
The black NATO strap, the GULF NATO, the James Bond grey-black NATO, the Goldfinger Khaki black-red NATO, the black NATO with white-red stripe.
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The most common width remains 20mm (compatible with all ROLEX and the majority of OMEGA watches). However, some brands require other dimensions. Our website offers an extensive range of NATO straps in numerous colourways!
Click below to discover our NATO strap range by width
NATO 18mm . NATO 20mm . NATO 22mm . NATO 24mm . NATO 19 et 21mm .
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Fitting a NATO strap — video guide
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Leather watch straps
Many manufacturers offer different types of leather watch straps. Pay close attention to the origin of your strap and the leathers used. Low-quality straps are made from CHROME-tanned leather — a source of allergies, resulting in a stiffer strap with a shorter lifespan.
VEGETABLE-TANNED leather: offered by HIRSCH and AREZZO STRAPS. Vegetable tanning uses no chemicals (no chrome) — only tree bark. It is an ancient process that endures to this day, naturally appealing to eco-conscious enthusiasts. Oak bark is widely used as one of the richest in tannins. Hides are drum-tumbled for several months, remaining naturally hypoallergenic. The resulting leather is suppler and the pigments used are also natural. The different leather types are described below…
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Discover HIRSCH straps . . Discover AREZZO straps .
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Nubuck calfskin watch strap: charm and elegance
Extremely soft to the touch and supple, genuine nubuck has a warm, silky feel. This softness is achieved by buffing the surface of calfskin or buffalo hide. Nubuck watch straps are generally of fine construction — very lightweight and comfortable to wear.
Hirsch OSIRIS strap (nubuck surface with smooth leather lining)
AREZZO Nubuck SLIM (vegetable-tanned nubuck on both faces)
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Leather watch strapss classiques – vachette – veau – buffle :
Standard leather straps are made by a multi-layer bonding process and are generally stitched. Lining leathers must be hypoallergenic (vegetable-tanned).
Structures are either padded or flat, depending on the chosen style. Stitching can be "contrasting" for a sportier look, or the same colour as the outer leather for a more "classic" effect — known as "tone-on-tone" stitching.
Regarding the "lateral edge" of the strap, different finishes exist:
"Folded edge": the outer leather wraps around the lateral edges of the strap and folds beneath, hidden by the lining. Used for padded and classic straps. The padding is achieved by bonding a rounded water-resistant foam just beneath the outer leather layer (see cross-section photo below).
The "Cut Edge" or "square cut" technique involves building a strap from several sandwiched layers cut vertically with a lasting iron. A full lateral stitch may be applied, or simple "vintage" stitching typical of Italian straps. The cut edge is then brushed with a light protective coating (latex) to limit moisture ingress between layers.
Strap cross-sections: left — a CUT EDGE strap with lateral latex protection.
Right — a folded-edge leather strap with padded look (central foam).
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Crocodile or alligator-embossed calfskin leather
Embossed leathers are standard calfskin (soft texture) stamped under a press with a scale pattern (crocodile or square alligator scales). You would think it was alligator… but it isn't! The imitation is remarkable, especially once the leather receives a specific coloured patina. This allows mid-range manufacturers to offer a luxurious "alligator" look at the price of a classic strap. The best example remains the Hirsch range with its two flagship straps priced between €36 and €50:
Hirsch DUKE golden brown and Hirsch Grand Duke waterproof black with red stitching.
Available on our e-shop from 18mm to 24mm width.
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Waterproof leathers
Born from a specific oil-enriched tanning process, certain leathers are completely waterproof! Very useful for sports enthusiasts who wish to run or swim with their watch on.
In very technical cases, waterproof straps feature genuine rubber linings with specific stitching and bonding to guarantee perfect water resistance. Extended lifespan, but a very sporty look as the leathers are often carbon-embossed.
Two examples below:
Hirsch Carbon orange strap vs AREZZO Racing multicolour carbon
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Precious and exotic leathers
Highly prized in the luxury industry, precious leathers include ostrich, lizard, crocodile and alligator (the most expensive). They are imported from various countries outside Europe under the strict control of CITES.
Beware of counterfeits, especially when purchasing Asian-made straps! Genuine ostrich skin has only a few raised points on the surface (feather attachment points). Crocodile skin is recognised by its scales being slightly more rounded than alligator. Genuine alligator features "square" scales, while the alligator flank is recognisable by its perfectly circular scales. Farm-raised crocodile will remain less expensive than genuine Mississippi alligator! Exotic leathers are beautiful but unfortunately more fragile than classic or alligator-embossed leather…
A few examples of precious leather straps available on our e-Shop:
Hirsch Capitano Alligator Black waterproof (available in 20 and 22mm on our site)
Arezzo Dark-CROCO Honey with rubber lining (available in 20 and 22mm on our site)
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Discover Hirsch CAPITANO 20mm . . Discover AREZZO Dark-CROCO 20mm
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Perforated RALLYE straps for chronograph watches
Very popular since the 2000s, RALLYE straps are making a comeback riding the vintage wave. A perfect pairing with classic cars! They suit CHRONOGRAPH watches like the OMEGA Speedmaster or other 3-register watches perfectly. The ultimate "vintage" look remains the 3-hole rallye strap, but modern watches pair beautifully with the new multi-hole Rallye styles — less assertive but sometimes more elegant depending on the outfit. Materials used are primarily smooth classic leather or suede.
Photos bracelet Arezzo Monza cuir lisse 3 trous et Bracelet Arezzo Maranello multi-trous (cuir lisse ou suédé)
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Combined leather-rubber "performance" watch straps
The flagship of the HIRSCH brand, the Performance range offers a simple but effective concept: a genuine rubber core covered in classic or precious leathers. These straps hold numerous registered patents, notably the rubber grid pattern that allows faster drying and prevents perspiration during sport! Waterproof – sauna resistant – sealed to 300m – a guaranteed recipe for extreme flexibility and comfort. The genuine rubber base is available in many colours, enhancing the bold, sporty character of these performance straps. Beware of counterfeits! Many sites offer straps with a similar look but poor technique — silicone-based with low-grade leather bonding, ultimately fragile and technically worthless.
Example: Hirsch James brown strap vs Hirsch Robby red and black
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Technical and diving rubber straps:
"Natural" or "synthetic" rubber? Beware the subtlety of the material!
Rubber belongs to the elastomer family. It can be obtained either by processing latex from certain plants such as the rubber tree (Hevea), or synthetically from monomers derived from hydrocarbons such as petroleum or silicon.
Genuine rubber is the most expensive but offers better longevity and a more pleasant feel than polyurethane or silicone (synthetic elastic straps typically from Asia). Genuine rubber and polyurethane straps are manufactured in Europe, unlike silicone straps…
Rubber can be coloured in orange, red, green… but remains most popular in black!
Characteristics of natural rubber watch straps:
• Resistance to traction and tearing
• Elastic rebound and heat resistance
• Perfectly suited for sport and diving
• Disadvantage: high price
Characteristics of synthetic rubber watch straps:
• Attractive price
• Unlimited colours
• Easy to mould but too flexible for technical straps
• Disadvantage: low durability / fatal cracking!
Example: HIRSCH PURE black rubber vs HIRSCH PURE orange rubber
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Discover diving straps on our e-shop
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Watch Strap Colour Harmony
There are different categories of straps, and a single watch can easily change its character depending on the strap model chosen — as long as an overall harmony is maintained!
A multitude of aesthetic criteria must work in harmony:
- Vintage or modern watch? Chronograph or diver? Dress or sport?
- Thick case or ultra slim?
- Case, dial and hands colour?
- Your personal style
- The choice of discretion, elegance and classic style
- A fashionable dandy look or dedicated sportsman
Here for example is a perfectly standard vintage Omega Speedmaster fitted with different strap types, photographed from the same angle. The same watch takes on a completely different character depending on an accessory ranging from €19 to €299!!
The same watch can dress in many different ways — simply a matter of style!
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The basic aesthetic rule is to harmonise the strap colour with the dial or hands of the watch. For instance:
Vintage watch with yellowed or patinated hands and indices: avoid very white stitching. A strap without visible stitching works well, or tone-on-tone stitching, more discreet (black leather with black stitching). Contrasting light stitching gives a sporty feel that may not suit a vintage watch and classic outfit. Regarding dial colour, a black strap works equally well with a light or dark dial. The same applies to brown or beige straps. Dark blue straps are trickier with old, gold-cased watches.
For modern watches, indices and hands are generally lighter — steel-coloured or painted white or red. Visible stitching on a strap can then perfectly "match" the hands. Red stitching adds a sporting touch, but it is best to have a red echo in the dial text or at least one hand (typically the seconds hand).
Pin buckle or deployment clasp for your watch strap?
Pin buckles
Standard "pin" buckles work on the same principle as belt buckles. Small holes on the long end of the strap allow precise length adjustment. All our straps come with a standard buckle, generally in silver-coloured stainless steel. Pin buckles are also available in gold colour. Pins are generally fine (for the small adjustment holes), but some sport straps use stainless steel buckles with wider pins requiring larger oval holes. Certain watch brands offer very specific wide-pin GPF-style buckles, such as PANERAI or BELL & ROSS
Deployment clasps for watch straps
There are 2 types of deployment clasps: basic "V" clasps with a single hinge. Simple to fit, they "clip" shut with light pressure.
"Butterfly" deployment clasps are in 3 parts with 2 hinges. An integrated mechanical system locks the clasp definitively. Opening can only be achieved by simultaneously pressing 2 lateral buttons — an absolute security guarantee.
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Some watch brands supply their watches with deployment clasps fitted as standard. Some are "standard" clasps that use the strap adjustment holes — the strap is standard and can be easily replaced with a Hirsch or AREZZO strap. Other brands such as BREITLING supply very specific deployment clasps that "pinch" the strap to adjust position and final length. When replacing, the new strap must be exactly the same thickness to be compatible with your original clasp's pinch mechanism.
Fitting a deployment clasp on a standard strap!
Nothing could be simpler! All our straps come with a classic pin buckle. We also offer both types of deployment clasp (V-clasp or butterfly) to replace the original buckle.
Example: When purchasing a 20mm strap on our site (Hirsch or AREZZO leather or rubber), the exact strap reference will be 20/18: 20mm lug width with 18mm buckle. You would therefore need to purchase an "18mm" deployment clasp to replace the original 18mm pin buckle.
Discover deployment clasps on our e-Shop
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Discover our watch strap collections
NATO Straps . NATO 20mm . NATO 22mm . NATO 18mm . Marine Nationale
HIRSCH Straps . AREZZO Straps . Rubber Straps
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We hope this watch strap guide has given you all the information you need!
Questions about automatic watch winders? Consult our complete guide by clicking the link below!
See the Automatic Watch Winder guide
Feel free to contact us by phone at: 09 80 84 88 08 (local call rate).